Placement of Brace Buttons

Buttons should be aligned with the pleats,
marked by the red dots

Now that we've covered off that braces should be worn with buttons (see previous post), where should the buttons be placed?

Placement of buttons is critically important to wearing braces. It determines where the brace straps lie and the line of the pants. In fact, you can probably notice a man wearing braces with a suit even when he has his jacket on, by the way the pant line cuts down the middle (when worn with pleated pants).  Buttons that are too close to the mid-section are uncomfortable and get in the way; too far apart, and the buttons do not adequately support the pleat and pant lines. This is true for both the front and back of the pants.

Alan Fusser correctly notes that there should be four buttons in the front: one over each of the main pleats, the other two just forward of the side seam. Depending on the brace connection, I find that 3.5-4 inches from pleat to side seam is comfortable and provides superior support. In the back, there should be two buttons (for Y-back and X-back style), equidistant from the center of the fork of the braces, so it falls naturally. Here it depends on the style of braces you plan to wear – Y-back braces require buttons closer together (about 2 inches on each side of the middle seam) while buttons for X-back braces should be spaced a little farther apart. I’ve found that 3-4 inches on each side of middle seam is comfortable. There is also a variety that has 4 buttons in the back for X-back braces.

Button placement in the front
The placement of the buttons in the front of the pants is critical to supporting the line of the pants. To illustrate Alan Fusser's advice above, here' are 2 pictures:

 The one on the left has the buttons too close to the middle and not supporting the main seam. The one on the right has the buttons way over to the side, supporting the side seam, but the main seam will sag. Therefore, there is a balance that should be achieved. The main seam is most visible and should be supported first, followed by the side seam. Depending on the size of the pants, you may be able to support both the main and side seam with the braces.


Inside or outside?
The buttons may be sewn inside or outside the waistband, depending upon personal preference. Historically, when vests were worn and concealed the braces, the buttons were sewn on the outside. When people started shedding vests, the buttons migrated to the inside. I personally don’t notice a difference when wearing braces, but you may. As for fashion, I think it can be very stylish to display the brace buttons on the outside of your pants or skirt. However, it can be distracting if the pants also have belt loops.

Belt Loops
Pants or skirts to be worn with braces should not be worn in conjunction with a belt. You don’t need both a belt and braces to perform the same function of holding up your pants (or skirt). Therefore, the wearer must decide how to wear the pants – with braces or with a belt. Pants to be worn with braces should not accommodate a belt and so should have no belt loops (or be removed). Pants to be worn with braces should be a little larger at the waist so that they are actually "suspended" from the shoulders. 

The skirt on the right is too large
around the waist; on the left is
perfect size.

The front side of the skirt from the left picture displays
the correct waist size, button placement and suspension
(unfortunately the brace material is deteriorating)

I understand that the majority of suit pants and skirts are made ready to wear, and the majority of society does not wear braces. As such, the majority of pants and skirts come with belt loops, and so people leave them on when wearing braces (even with buttons). However, if you are to be functionally correct, the belt loops should be removed. Think of it like wearing a cuff-link shirt with no cuff-links – you know something’s missing. 

Don't follow his example. Not only does he have belt loops, he also has poor button placement - they are not aligned with the pleats and are too close to the center.

Types of buttons
While we are discussing button placement, we should also discuss buttons for braces. Brace buttons should:

• have 4 holes (rather than 2) to anchor the button to the pants. This provides proper support.
• be cone-shaped on the side facing the brace strap. If a straight button is used, the button threads will start to dig into the leather brace strap when tension is applied and cut it from the button hole on the brace strap. Eventually, or with enough force, the button hole will break open and the braces will lose tension. The button may still be attached, but the brace strap is unusable as the button hole is ripped open. To avoid this situation, cone-shaped buttons should be used. 
• match the inside lining of the pants. If the buttons are on the outside, feel free to sew on decorative buttons or ones that match the pattern.

A word on buttons popping off
One of the chief advantages put forth by the proponents of clip-on suspenders is that there is no buttons popping off – once a clip snaps off you can easily reattach it. While this is true, it misses the point of using buttons for braces and the style benefits of buttons. 

Significant stress is usually needed to
pop-off buttons

Balance is needed when determining the strength of the button threads to anchor braces – too strong and the brace strap will break from pressure resulting in the braces not being usable, too weak and the button threads will be constantly failing and buttons popping-off, resulting in the need to sew on the buttons. Contrary to belief, buttons popping off is not poor design. In fact, braces are attached with buttons to allow them to pop off under significant stress to save the brace strap button holes and ultimately the braces. One would rather have a popped button than a broken button hole on the brace strap which renders the braces unusable. Therefore, try to use the right thread weight and strength when sewing on the buttons. I’ve generally found that about 3 threads through each button hole is sufficient.

The brace buttons that generally pop off are the back ones. This is because they experience the most strain in tension. Consider this turn of events:

The man has lost both his back suspender buttons and is unable to use his braces to hold up his pants. However, his braces are in tack, so all he needs is new buttons to be sewn on. Also notice the durability of the left button - only popping off after significant pressure. So unless someone has the braces in their firm grip and pulling them, they generally do not pop-off. The fact is, clip-on suspenders would have snapped off a lot sooner than the buttons popped off. Therefore, use buttons whenever possible.

Here's a cute poem:

Roll-over

When sewing on buttons on the inside, the braces will pull-up the pants (doing their assigned task), and you may get the dreaded roll-over. 

To avoid this, make sure the button threads are sewn almost completely through the pants and get the majority of the pant lining. It may also help to put the button on the upper portion of the pant lining. You may also consider sewing completely through the pants using the same color thread as the pant material. Or sew the buttons on the outside...

Gary Cooper displays excellent button placement and style.

If there is one area that separates newbie brace wearers from seasoned professionals, it is in button placement. An expert brace wearer can tell the moment they see someone wearing braces if they are worn correct or not. So take these notes to heart next time you sew on buttons.

Discussion time:

• Where do you find button placement to be most comfortable?
• Do you prefer buttons on the inside or outside?
• Do you find your buttons are popping off?
• Have any humorous stories of buttons popping off?

Note: all photos are used solely for non-commercial use and to illustrate braces in fashion. No plagiarism is intended.

Suspender Connections: Clip-ons versus buttons

Clip-on suspenders

Suspenders can be connected to your pants in two main ways: clip-ons and buttons. There’s also a few more, which I’ll briefly mention. Clip-ons provide a quick, easy method to attach suspenders to your pants or skirt. Each shoulder strap has 1 clip that snaps to the front of your pants on each side of the hips, and 1 or 2 clips (depending on if it’s a Y or X style) that clip to the back. They can come in beautiful colors, can be thin or wide, and add a fresh spice to a dull wardrobe. However, because they are so easy to attach, they are designated to the novice suspender-wearer. Wearing clip-ons with a formal suit or skirt looks tacky and cheap, like wearing a clip-on tie. No well-dressed individual would use clip-ons when wearing a formal outfit.

Button-on braces

Button connections are attached to leather ends that then attach to the suspender strap. Buttons are more traditional, formal, and more comfortable. Granted, buttons can pop-off, but how hard is it to sew on a button? Pants (or skirts) to be worn with button braces have 2 buttons on each side at the front, and 2 buttons at the back for a total of 6 buttons. As such, there are 6 “connection points” to the pants, compared to a minimum of 3 connections with Y-style clip-on suspenders – double the connections! More connection points means your pants stay in place better and the straps will not move as much. There’s also braces that have 8 connection points – 4 in the front, and 4 in the back, which can be very comfortable.

Connection points are the key consideration. If you just want to follow the latest trend, you can use clip-on suspenders. But if you actually need to hold up your pants, you should use button-on braces. Case in point, this man is using the incorrect braces, as the suspenders do not adequately support the pants. He should have installed buttons for these pants.

This man needs more connection points

V-connection

With buttons, there’s a sub-category: inverse V-connections and inverse U-connections. V-connections have 2 separate straps that connect to the buttons, while U-connections are a continuous loop. Both have their advantages and disadvantages.  

V-connections are more traditional and anchor the shoulder strap in the same line, regardless of movement. 

U-connection

U-connections are somewhat more modern and allow the shoulder strap to slide along the U-connection in unison with the body’s movement. This provides more freedom and superior comfort. In the front, when you lean forward, the strap slides forward; when you lean backwards, the strap slides backwards. When you wear Y-back braces, when you lean left, the back strap will slide left; when you lean right, the back strap will slide right. Everything in line, everything comfortable, and less strain on the buttons! This is likely the reason they have become the predominant style for braces (excluding clip-on suspenders).

One drawback of U-connections is if one button pop-off, the strap will lose tension and not properly anchor the pants. This is not the case in a V-connection which retains the tension, after the strap moves slightly for the change in balance due to the popped button. Mind you, if you pop-off a button on either style, the loss in the connection point will be noticed! But when you are wearing button-on braces you shouldn’t be popping buttons; if you are doing strenuous work, consider bachelor buttons. This lady has popped a button and thus has a loose brace strap.

Notice the loose brace strap due to the popped button

As you’ve probably noticed, I generally use suspenders to refer to clip-on suspenders, and braces to refer to the button-on variety.
I recommend the button-on braces any day over clip-on suspenders. But you do get marks for wearing suspenders!

The primary disadvantage of clip-on suspenders is that they always seem to snap off at the wrong time, or need constant adjusting.

But they are easy to put on.

Alternative connections include:
- bachelor buttons provide a permanent connection with a metal rivet and suitable for denim. These are useful when doing heavy labour, but may not be stylish.

- single connection strap – These are simple and basic, but do not provide sufficient support for the pants. This is because there are fewer connection points which will result in sagging.

Or this single-button style:

- Clip on, button-style connections – like these. These are the middle ground connections that try to be too much. They are handy for snapping on your pants, but are not suitable for formal wear, where buttons show the more polished image.

- Straps sewn directly into the pants or skirt. These are stylish, but don’t allow for movement and stretch during the day. As a result, they are more prone to ripping and tearing which is harder to repair than sewing on a button.

Discussion time:

• What type of connection do you prefer?
• Do you buy pants/skirts and then find braces to wear with them, or buy braces and then find pants/skirt to wear with it?

Note: all photos are used solely for non-commercial use and to illustrate braces in fashion. No plagiarism is intended.